Both Sides Now

Our much anticipated arrival in the city of Puerto Iguazu couldn't have gotten off to a better start. As we stepped off the bus a sun shower was underway. It provided a little touch of magic and a cooling effect. Signs that had popped up along the road from the airport served as harbingers of what was to come and enhanced our sense of excitement.    

The city of roughly 85,000 people thrives on tourism. There are some very worthwhile places to visit while you're in the neighbourhood such as a botanical garden and wildlife centre. The main attraction, however, is Argentina's Iguazu National Park which lies within a protected rainforest just eighteen kilometres away.  

Iguazu Falls was formed some 132 million years ago by an enormous volcanic eruption. While some of the falls plunge hundreds of feet straight down, many others cascade in a series of smaller steps. The 275 individual drops stretch for approximately 2700 metres making it the largest waterfall system in the world. We spent a full eight hours in the park exploring each of the three trails: Lower, Upper and, at the very top, Devil's Throat. Each of them provided numerous views from various angles. Needless to say, we took a ton of photos but I'll include just one from each of the main pathways.  

It's quite easy to get around the park. A little train shuttles people from one hub to another. We began the day by taking it to the farthest point and working our way back on foot. While I'd hardly call it the road less travelled it did allow us to avoid some of the crowds and do some exploring on our own.  

In addition to the falls, there's lots to see and enjoy in the park. Streams and pools seem to swirl and gurgle all around before embarking upon their slippery descent.  The wildlife is abundant! The very cute coatis, members of the raccoon family, carefully monitor the human activity looking for handouts and can be seen just about everywhere.   

Our plan for the next day was to cross into Brazil to visit the bird park and explore the falls from that side. The trip unexpectedly provided us with a personal insight into the Argentinian tradition (some would say obsession) of drinking mate (pronounced Ma-tay). Remember how impressed we were with those metal straws we had seen? Well, they're a key component of the mate ritual. You never have to look far to see someone clutching their thermos, cup and straw.     

Mate was first brewed by the native Guaranies people. Instead of caffeine it contains the stimulant "matine" and is effective at managing body weight since it alleviates hunger. It also has an important social dimension with groups of people sharing from the same cup, using the same straw, person-to-person. There are some rules. For example, never say thank-you since it suggests that you don't want any more and are not eager to extend the friendship. 

While waiting for the bus to depart Nancy struck up a conversation with our bus driver. Up until that point he had been a little on the gruff side but when Nancy asked him about mate his demeanour changed completely. He immediately offered to share his drink with us and it would have been impolite to refuse so we each had a sip. It's definitely not for the germophobic!         

Mate paraphernalia for sale. It's a big business in Argentina.

Across the border, the city is called Foz do Iguacu. It is much bigger than its Argentinian counterpart...about a quarter of a million people!  The bird park was a fantastic experience. It was much larger than we had expected (12 acres) with reptiles and a butterfly garden too. We really felt immersed in the jungle and appreciated being out of the hot sun.

We don't feel very comfortable with most zoos but this facility was supporting injured and orphaned animals with the goal of returning as many of them as possible to the wild. The research being done helps to justify the program. The most unique species was the grey crowned crane, the national bird of Uganda. How does an exotic animal from a different continent end up in an animal shelter?  Much of the wildlife at the park has been confiscated from the illegal smuggling trade.   

   

One of Nancy's favourite moments of the day was when a large toco toucan plopped itself right down on the rail beside her for a prolonged private visit. There were also a number of the smaller aracari toucans to be seen. Another highlight was watching a cassowary revel in a shower that was provided by a worker who had a hose.  

Toco Toucan 

The park has a pair of harpy eagles which are one of the most impressive birds in the world. The highlight of the day for me was when one landed right in front of me, perched on a limb above a pool of water and began to groom itself. A roseate spoonbill that was collecting material for a nest flew up from the ground and also landed on a nearby branch. I felt awkward in the large enclosure that currently houses about seventy macaws. Although there was quite a bit of space it was feeding time. A burst of activity ensued and there birds were suddenly in a frenzy. One of them bounced off the top of my head!     

Scarlet and Blue-Yellow Macaws with their Toys 

Roseate Spoonbill on a Mission  

Heliconia (Lobster-Claw) Plants

Two Boa Constrictor Buddies

We'd had such a full and captivating visit at the bird park (including a delicious lunch in a lovely garden with flamingos) that we ended up deciding not to make a hurried jaunt to see Iguazu Falls from the Brazilian side. Although it provides a better overall view of the falls than in Argentina it is from further away and the couple of viewing points do not provide nearly as much variety. It's generally a lot more crowded and several people told us that it's very difficult to even get an unobstructed view. Having spent a full day studying this watery wonderland the day before, we were ready to move on.