A World of Our Own

I'm a product of the 1960s, a time of social upheaval and idealism amongst the younger generation. Communal living was in fashion and the concept of an intentional community has always intrigued me. Egalitarianism, fellowship, sharing resources and living with a purpose. In 1980 I spent ten weeks working on an Israeli kibbutz. A few years later I lived with and supervised groups of young adults in the national youth program, Katimavik.  

This abiding interest in collectivism and alternative lifestyles in general led us to El Bolson. Billed as the "Hippie Headquarters" of Argentina, during the 1960s people moved here from the cities looking for tranquility and a new way of life. We noticed a little extra flower power but the scene was not too Bohemian. The values endure, however, in the form of environmentalism, a focus on community, handicrafts, economic self-sufficiency, festivals and political activism.

El Bolson sits in a very attractive valley. With an excellent water supply and lots of sunshine there's an abundance of local produce at good prices and delicious vegetarian options on the menus. For the first time during our trip we saw evidence of composting. Mountains to the east provide an awesome backdrop for scenic viewpoints around the town.   

The downtown area centres around a pond where people gather to socialize or use paddleboats. The wide-eyed looking Wholistic Centre provides the locals and travellers with a chance to get their fix of yoga, massage and other treatments. 

  

El Bolson's main attraction is its renown artisans market which takes place near the town's cute little clock tower. It's the best street fair in Patagonian featuring 200-300 stalls at any given time. All of the products for sale have to be made locally. Needless to say there are lots of tasty treats available including empanadas, pastries that are stuffed with cheese, meat and veggie options. They're the number one fast food in this part of the world.   

A shop in El Bolson claims to have the best ice cream in Argentina. It's the kind of ploy we don't mind falling for every now and then. The town's also known for the carvings that local artists create out of dead trees.  

One of the main reasons people come here is for multi-day trips in the mountains. We tackled the 20 km day hike along the emerald Rio Azul which ended at the chain of pools known as the Cajon del Azul. Our wildlife sightings included the southern lapwing which we've seen a lot of during the past few weeks.

 

There are quite a few homesteads immersed in the forest. Patagonia has a history of attracting restless spirits. It is a remote place where oddballs and tormented souls from around the planet have been able to start afresh and be left in peace. The Welsh showed up in droves when English oppression became too great. Opportunists sought to exploit one of the world's last frontiers. In 1860 a French lawyer arrived and claimed the entire territory as his kingdom. 

    

El Bolson is near Chabut where two famous personalities tried to reinvent their lives. Robert Leroy Parker and Harry Alonzo Longabaugh, better known as Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid, were real characters loosely portrayed in the 1969 movie starring Paul Newman and Robert Redford. Butch was the brains behind their outlaw gang but never murdered anyone; that role fell to the hot-tempered and less scrupulous Kid. By 1900 law and order were gaining ground in the American southwest. Many associates had died in saloon brawls, been killed by hired gunmen or were behind bars. Butch and Sundance escaped to Argentina, bought land under assumed names and farmed for five years before robbing a bank and heading to Bolivia. Sundance was killed but Butch returned to America where he died of pneumonia in 1960.         

Butch Cassidy (left) and The Sundance Kid (right). 

Even in a utopia you'd likely need a good dose of patience. The folks here seem to have it. Day-to-day activities that we take for granted at home grind along slowly. Banking is a bit of an ordeal. Self-service gas stations don't seem to have arrived: one gas jockey often jumps among many cars. Every home and apartment we've seen requires the use of a skeleton key which is fun until you get locked out of your accommodation or miss a bus. Many have a trick such as "pull the door tight, insert the key, turn it once to the right, lift the door then turn the key a second time and push." 

In then end, any place that I can have a siesta is probably alright by me.

       

We'll build a world of our own that no one else can share

All our sorrows we'll leave far behind us there

And I know you will find there'll be peace of mind

When we live in a world of our own

(Lyrics by The Seekers, 1965)