The Smoking Mountain: El Chalten

Patagonia is not a well-defined territory marked on any map. It's a vast region near the bottom of South America that can be unpredictable and inhospitable to those who arrive unprepared. Its relative isolation has also kept it sparsely populated, one of the last regions of the world to be impacted by human migration. Our experiences in the north had provided a terrific introduction but it didn't really feel like we'd arrived until we were exposed to the daunting landscapes further south.

Two prevalent features of Patagonia are the basalt pebbles left behind by glaciers, and jarilla, the low bush that is the dominant form of vegetation. The Rio de Las Vueltas winds its way past the village of El Chalten, the youngest town in Argentina. Established in 1985, it's a hikers' haven at the base of the Condor Wall, a popular place for climbing.

Our first day was spent settling into our cabin, getting our bearings and walking to the beautiful Chorrillo del Salto waterfall outside of town. Along the way we were introduced to the cute little Long-Tailed Meadowlark that pops in and out of the greenery. We were surprised to see some parakeets so far south. They've been our companions throughout most of the trip.

We scheduled a week in El Chalten anticipating some adverse weather. People have spent a similar amount of time and never witnessed the prized mountain views. Patagonia is famous for its ferocious winds and they arrived howling and whining like a temperamental child. The 120 km/hr gusts seemed like a meteorological hazing meant to assess whether we were worthy of the scenic treasures that awaited us. By the end of the third day the rain stopped and we explored the village.

 

This January was exceptionally wet in El Chalten and the opportunities for climbing were limited. People got impatient and went when they knew they shouldn't, resulting in a higher than average number of serious injuries. A small chapel is a memorial to the members of the mountaineering community who have lost their lives. Jacques Poincenot, one of the original French team that endeavoured to conquer Mount Fitz Roy drowned crossing a river before he even reached the mountains.    

As a warm-up before the major hikes we climbed to the nearby Condor Mirador and Eagle Mirador (lookouts). They provided outstanding views of the Cordon del Bosque range, the Bahia (Bay) Tunel on Lake Viedma plus some other major peaks. 

The signature trail at El Chalten is called Laguna de Los Tres. It's 26 km round trip. Before getting very far we came across a trio of Magellanic woodpeckers and a few flickers. An hour later we were staring at the summit of the mighty Mount Fitz Roy! Although it is sometimes entirely clear, most often it has at least a small puff of clouds about it. The native Tehuelche people referred to Fitz Roy as Chalten, "Smoking Mountain" since they believed it to be a volcano. 

The trail crawled higher providing views of Cerro Madsen, Cerro Electrico, Piedras Blanca Glacier and Rio Blanco. Giddy that we had lucked out with such a fine day we hustled to get to Los Tres before the weather changed. Then we rounded a bend and saw fifty hikers sitting on the ground. The rain had caused flooding and the route was closed for 48 hours! Two days later we were back at it, this time able to begin the climb that provided lovely views of Lakes Madre, Capri and Hija. 

The last part is steep but worth it to see Laguna de Los Tres and Laguna Sucia. There was  a fox darting about at the top! Mount Fitz Roy was first scaled in 1952. Technical difficulties, high winds and snow limited the French team to 20 of the 700 metres the first day. Perhaps it was true that God had erected the pinnacle to destroy man's pride! Two climbers were finally successful but not before they ran out of climbing pitons and survived the last day on just a sip of water and ice cubes. 

   

El Chalten is in the north sector of Los Glaciares National Park. It's surrounded by wilderness and entry would be difficult to manage so there are no entrance fees! In addition to the high mountain terrain and Patagonian steppe there are forests of mainly three varieties of beech trees. Their yellow-fringed leaves are delightful. The evergreen prickly heath is also present.       

The other main trail is called Laguna Torre. It's slightly shorter (24 km) and the most popular trek because it is not as gruelling. It's a mostly gentle climb that in due course parallels the shoreline of the Fitz Roy River. On the left Cerro Solo looms above the waterway. The trio of peaks known as the Cerro Tecnado Negro form an imposing presence on the right.

          

I was excited to see a torrent duck perched on a rock ready for action. It is one of only four specialized species of birds in the world that thrive in fast flowing mountain streams. Its diet consists mostly of insect larvae and molluscs but also small fish. How it is able to navigate and hunt in the torrential flow amazes me.    

Laguna Torre, Glacier Grande and the base of the mountain range were stunning. Despite our best efforts we never gazed upon the revered Cerro Torre. It's bashful at the best of times; devotees spend hours waiting for the clouds to clear. The tooth-like projection is the source of the moniker Los Tres, named after the three Italians who attempted to reach the summit in 1959. One gave up but rivals Cesare Maestri and Toni Egger carried on. The last twelve hours were on perilous vertical ice. According to Maestri they reached the top in the midst of a storm, stayed momentarily then made a desperate retreat. When they'd almost reached the fixed ropes the ice detached carrying Egger with it. The only proof of the ascent had been in his camera so the feat was disputed. When a confirmed route was established in 2005 there was no evidence of previous climbing and Maestri's description was inaccurate. It's now believed that the duo had been off course on an adjacent peak.   

   

While leaving town we got a glimpse of a huemul deer. It's an endangered species that has suffered from over grazing, fires, poaching, dog attacks, invasive species and development. According to our hosts, the introduction of some bison is causing more concern. A poor understanding of ecology has also damaged other habitats in the region. Canadian beavers were imported during the 1940s to establish a fur industry but they are now a plague that destroys sensitive trees and blocks the waterways. Another foreign animal, the American mink, threatens the survival of certain species of waterfowl. 

What a memorable week we had in El Chalten! I was so grateful to be able to experience this magical place and get my fill of the kind of exercise that I crave. We both highly recommend the destination but if you do come here, don't expect to see any kites, chimes or tightrope walkers. You won't be asked to pass a roadside sobriety test. Leave your wig or toupee at home!