Buenos Aires: The Art of Living and Dying

Vibrant. Stately. Diverse. Compliments flow freely from travelers who have fallen in love with Buenos Aires. Beginning with only an unrefined notion of what the Argentinian capital might be like, it didn't take long for us to conclude that the praise is well-deserved. From the grittiness of the barrios to the bling of its upscale developments the city has a robust pulse. Despite ongoing economic woes, there's a palpable sense of renewal. In Puerto Madero the obsolete docks on the La Plata River were transformed into a fashionable district in the 1990s.  

                 

Even among other Latin Americans, the Argentinians have a reputation for passion. This is exemplified in their love of tango, the world's most sensual dance. It made sense, therefore, that when the pedestrian route called the Bridge of Women was unveiled in 2001 its design symbolized a man embracing a woman, leaning backwards in the traditional tango pose. 

     

Puerto Madero's resurrection had an important social dimension. The bridge leads to the Plaza de Mayo, the focal point of Argentina's political life. Each Thursday the Mothers of the May Plaza still protest against the Dirty War of 1974-1983 when American-backed state terrorism led to the disappearance of about 30,000 people. All of the streets in Puerto Madero are now named after women. This was officially done to honour female contributions to society but I wonder if this gesture was also a tacit apology to these long suffering women and their families. 

Like other great cities, the scope of Buenos Aires makes it daunting to explore. Due to the old world elegance of its fine buildings, during the 1930s it was commonly referred to as the Paris of South America. On the Plaza de Mayo, the Casa Rosada (Pink House) is the executive mansion and office of the President of Argentina. It was from the top balcony that Juan Peron addressed the 300,000 people who had gathered to demand his release from detention in 1945. During his presidency (1946-1952) he and his wife Eva (Evita) used this platform to deliver rousing speeches to the masses.  

Eva Peron is an Argentinian cultural icon, a cult hero, much like Frida Kahlo in Mexico. Born into poverty, at fifteen she moved to Buenos Aires to pursue an acting career. Later, as the president's wife, she championed labour rights and women's suffrage thus endearing her to the working class. The day she died all official activities in the country ceased. Movies were stopped and patrons were asked to leave restaurants. Congress proclaimed her the "Spiritual Leader of the Nation". She is depicted in steel murals on the upper north and south faces of the Ministry of Health and Social Development skyscraper.    

Another noteworthy edifice on the plaza is odd indeed. Its Greco-Roman style suggests that it is an important state building but it is actually the Metropolitan Cathedral! It contains a memorial to the Jews who died in the Holocaust and the 1992 attack on the city's Israeli Embassy. Next to New York, Buenos Aires has the largest Jewish population in the Americas. It's also worth mentioning that this is the home turf of Pope Francis.

One chapel has a statue called the Holy Christ of Great Love. It was donated in 1978 by a soccer player whose family had disappeared. He swore that he would make a contribution if his love ones ever reappeared, and they did. One chapel contains the coffin of San Martin, the military hero who liberated Argentina, Chile and Peru from Spanish rule. It is closely protected. I wonder if any other cathedral in the world has a Changing of the Guard like the one that we watched. 

         

There are many impressive buildings. The neoclassical Palace of the National Congress is lavishly decorated. It serves as kilometer zero for every national highway. The Supreme Court was designed as a symbol of power  in the Roman style. The Colon Theatre is considered to be one of the ten best opera houses in the world.

 

The Obelisk is of particular interest. Each side is inscribed with a key moment in the history of the city. It has been the site of many sports celebrations. Diego Maradona promised to run around it naked if Argentina won the 2010 World Cup of soccer. In 2005 it was covered in a gigantic pink condom to commemorate World AIDS Day. In 2006 it was transformed into a pencil to pay tribute to the students who were kidnapped and murdered during the "Night of the Pencils" in 1976. 

          

Of course it's the people that give the city its special vibe. It's a dynamic place filled with the chatter of friends and families on the go. The eateries, street life, quirky fashion stores, bars and cafe culture are enticing. The Palermo district has so much to offer that it alone seemed a bit overwhelming. Restaurants along the Parque de Tres Febrero have been forged out of the recesses under an old bridge, another example of how the city has creatively built upon the past.

   

The couple in Palermo that hosted us were wonderful everyday folks about the same age as me, still working hard to eke out a living. They reminded us of a layer of society other than the exuberant younger generation. Pablo fit the stereotype of the typical Argentine male. Extremely enthusiastic and proud, he went to great lengths to ensure we had a good time. His humour and machismo gave us lots of laughs. Ask him a question about soccer and the juices really started to flow!  

  

The extent of the green space in Palermo is generous beyond belief. A botanical garden, rose garden, eco-park and Japanese garden are more or less contiguous, providing people with a terrific opportunity for unimpeded exercise.       

Argentinian Mara, the fourth largest rodent in the world, Eco-Park in Palermo  

Monuments? There are so many statues of all shapes and sizes that they make your head start to spin. It was a nice change to see some that were devoted to poets and artistic expression rather than the usual cast of political figures.  

Floralis Generica, a Huge Metal Flower that Opens and Closes Each Day to Symbolize Hope    

Many of the Palermo streets are lined with plane trees with their mottled bark which I first admired while studying in the south of France. We were astounded by the size of the Ceibo trees. This one needs support to keep its limbs off the ground. The trunk is about ninety feet away!  The lovely red flowers are part of the reason that it's Argentina's national tree.

Next to Palermo is Recoleta, a beautiful old neighbourhood. The historically important Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar (1732) has a lovely garden nearby with beds of marigolds. At the Plaza de Francia a statue honours the French writer Emile Zola. 

One of the city's main attractions is Recoleta Cemetery where for two hundred years the elite of society have engaged in a final show of one-upmanship. The ostentatious vaults call into question that old adage that when it comes to death and money you can't take it with you! Over ninety tombs are national historic monuments. If you get there early you can walk the streets of what seems like an abandoned medieval kingdom. It's a little spooky!  

Stories bring some of the details to life. Liliana Crociati de Szaszak was honeymooning in the Swiss Alps when an avalanche killed her. She stands in her wedding gown outside the alpine-like tomb with her dog Sabu who died shortly thereafter half a world away. Rufina Cambaceres had been pronounced dead but when her coffin was reopened to add a ring she was discovered in a different position with a look of terror on her face. The lid was damaged and Rufina's hands were bloodied. She'd been buried alive! David Alleno was a grave worker who saved his whole life to buy a fancy grave complete with a statue of himself. In 1960 he got tired of waiting and committed suicide. His spirit is said to wander the grounds at night.   

Evita was buried here after a convoluted journey. Shortly after her death, plans were made to construct a monument the size of the Statue of Liberty. Juan was overthrown in a coup and fled the country. It became illegal to possess photos of the Perons or to even speak their names. The military had Evita buried in Italy. She was exhumed and joined Juan in Spain where the corpse was kept on a platform near the dining table. She was eventually repatriated and the government has taken elaborate steps to protect the body. The tomb's floor has a trapdoor that leads to a compartment containing two coffins. Under that is a second trapdoor and chamber where the coffin rests. It's said that the tomb could withstand a nuclear attack!      

Like any place, Buenos Aires has its wrinkles. Outside the main areas it's not very safe. On our final day we visited La Boca, a working class district where immigrants traditionally arrived. It's described as the soul of the city. Tourists usually stick to Caminito, a narrow street that showcases the colourful painted homes typical of the early dwellings. We went on a Saturday morning while the thieves were asleep and were able to fan out for a few blocks to get a bit of a feel for the real La Boca.  

La Boca is the home of La Bombonera, one of the most electric soccer stadiums in the world. Its field is the minimum size required under international regulations making for a very intimate environment. Unfortunately it's in a definite no-go zone and we didn't have time for an official tour. The frontage on one of the bars in the area displays the two greatest Argentine soccer legends, Diego Maradona and Lionel Messi.    

Well, if you've been thinking that we had a REALLY good time in Buenos Aires, you'd be correct. We put the lentils and rice on a shelf for a few days and treated ourselves. On our last night we went and watched some tango. I'd hoped to share some details about Argentinian fashion, pieces that we saw in the Fine Arts Museum and our observations on the carnivorous habits we have witnessed, but enough is enough. Thanks for continuing to follow along.