Salta the Beautiful

Doze while traversing the southern reaches of the Jujuy region and you might awake to discover that you've arrived in an entirely new domain. The arid and dusty complexion of the land suddenly gives way to many miles of lush densely packed forests. We'd crossed into a new watershed and the leap in humidity had upped the ante on the dream we've been living. But what South American trip would seem authentic without a dose of sultry weather?  

Now in the province of Salta, we were eager to settle in and begin to explore the capital city which bears the same name. Founded in 1582 by the conquistador Hernando de Lerma, Salta would play a major role in the War of Independence yet its colonial architecture remained relatively unscathed by the armed conflicts of the 18th and 19th centuries. For this reason it is lovingly referred to as "Salta the Beautiful". 

The most aesthetically pleasing building is the pink neoclassical Salta Cathedral. At night it is well lit and has an imposing presence against the backdrop of the night sky. Red marble provides a warmth to the interior and the high central dome is ornate. The matrix of the stone flooring provides a three-dimensional illusion. It's really quite gorgeous!  

One block away, the magenta and yellow Church of San Francisco appears to be the creation of a baker rather than stone masons, carpenters and painters. The 174 foot tower, which is the tallest belfry in the Americas, holds the Campana de la Patria, a bronze bell made from the cannons used in the battle for Salta during the War of Independence.   

What really stole the show were the flowering trees that dominate the main square, the Plaza of the 9th of July. The date honours the country's day of independence in 1816. How fortunate we were to witness the beauty of the tipa (rosewood) trees with their brilliant yellow blossoms! These towering giants can grow up to thirty metres high and twenty metres wide.   

The flowers of the palo borracho (silk floss tree) across from the cathedral also captured our attention. A legend claims that the tree was actually once a woman, who after devoting her love to a soldier that died in battle, became a tree in the woods. The blood of her deceased lover spread through the five petals that were once her fingers. 

Salta has a population of about 650,000 people but has managed to preserve some of its Andean charm. Still, unless you are in the outskirts where we saw horses and donkeys wandering freely, the city has a modern and cosmopolitan feel. After the War of Independence, immigrants from Italy, Syria and Lebanon as well as Spain helped to revive the economy and provide a multicultural identity. This is evident in the musical traditions and folk dances that are performed by the buskers at various venues.

   

Salta has a number of good exhibitions including the Museum of High Technology. Its star attraction is incredibly special: the Mummies of Llullaillaco. In 1999 three Incan children were found atop a 22,000 foot peak in the Andes between Chile and Argentina. Due to the low oxygen, humidity and temperature, they are the best preserved mummies in the world. Their skin is intact and life-like, their clothes are in excellent condition and the last meals were found undigested in their stomachs. 

The two girls were roughly six and fifteen years old and the boy was about seven. They had been sacrificed in an Incan ritual shortly before the arrival of the Spanish in the 15th century. Members of the Incan elite, their deaths had been an honour. It may seem cruel to have been drugged, allowed to freeze then buried in a small chamber but the Incans believed that their spirits would remain alive and join their ancestors in order to supervise the affairs of the people from high above.    

  

Although some native groups have protested what they believe to be a serious violation of the sacred traditions of their ancestors, local Incans working closely with the scientists believe the small museum to be a shrine. To protect the mummies, only one is put on display at a time. We saw the boy. He was found sitting on a grey robe with his legs bent facing in the direction of the rising sun. An ornament of white feathers supported by a wool sling wrapped around his head. His fists were closed and although you can't clearly see it in the photo, his entire forearm is exposed on the other side of his body. 

The most important monument in Salta is the 1932 equestrian statue that recognizes Martin Miguel de Guemes who led the town's rebels in the War of Independence. The location is supposedly the exact spot where he fell from his horse with a fatal bullet wound. Close by, a 1000 foot staircase winds its way past the twelve stages of the cross en route to a popular viewpoint on San Bernardo Hill that provides a sunset view of the city. 

    

To escape the heat for half a day we travelled to the nearby village of San Lorenzo which is at a slightly higher altitude. There's a nature preserve with a lovely stream that cascades through the property but hiking is not encouraged. All of the trails except one turned out to be off limits without a guide. The connecting routes were so steep and poorly maintained that they would have been dangerous anyway. We climbed upward through the cloud forest and were eventually rewarded with a terrific bird sighting, a trio of Plush Crested Jays!  What a cute eye patch and attractive tail!    

  

For our final day in the area we headed off on a tour of the Quebrada de las Conchas (Valley of the Shells). Although a long way from the sea today, the area is rich in marine deposits and even dinosaur footprints. There are many curious geological formations that have been named.  Which of the following do you think has been labelled "the Titanic"? 

  

The turn around point on the 400 km trip was the small town of Cafayate which is located in a major wine producing region of the country.  Although we are not big consumers of the grape we did enjoy visiting a vineyard and doing some tasting. It was a fun way to finish up our stay before hitting the road once again.  

Now that February has arrived in Canada it won't be long before the days begin to seem just a little bit longer.  We hope that the cold front that has held Ontario in its grip will soon make other plans. Bye for now!