Chiloe: Time Capsule of a Seafaring Community

Chiloe is the nucleus of the forty islands in an archipelago 1200 km south of Santiago. The Spanish displaced the native population during the 16th century but Chiloe remained isolated for a long time. The preservation of its simple traditions has made it a popular destination that features one of the few temperate rainforests in the world. To offset the often wet and rather gloomy weather many of the houses and boats are brightly painted. It has a lot in common with the Sunshine Coast!                          

A museum in the town of Dalcahue tells the history of the settlers. During the early years Chiloe was the main producer of South America's railroad ties and an important landing for foreign whalers. The world's largest animal, the blue whale, resides off the northwest coast. Chilean researchers have learned a lot about this species that for decades teetered on the verge of extinction. The museum has a full skeleton of a blue whale.      

Dalcahue is known for its waterfront artisans market where the crafts have to be made on the islands. Many of the products are created from wool or wood. Bird mobiles and beautifully constructed containers caught my eye.      

People seem to take pride in their homes and tidy little gardens which also add appeal to the seaside community. Many of the species are similar to those that we have at home.

Another attraction is the 18th and 19th century churches. Most are made entirely of wood. Sixteen are UNESCO World Heritage Sites! About 35 of the 40 islands in the archipelago are inhabited. Some of the most distinct churches are in remote locations that would be fun to explore. The photo below is of the San Antonio Church in the village of Chacao.  

    

San Antonio Fort in Ancud was initially built to protect the coast from pirates and foreign powers. Later, it played an important role during the War of Independence. Two offshore attacks by Chilean rebels were unsuccessful. The third time they arrived disguised as a Spanish warship in the middle of the night and overthrew the Spanish forces. 

Sailors are notoriously superstitious and Chiloe is steeped in myths. As elsewhere, tales were created to explain poorly understood natural phenomena. It is also reported that inbreeding on smaller islands produced disfigured babies that spooked villagers. The moody weather might be a factor too. Fantasy figures are ever present. The guardian of the fort these days is El Trauco. He was once a feared demon believed to be the culprit when young unwed women got pregnant.  

Many of the themes revolve around the sea, especially serpents. The water god Caicai Vilu rose from the depths as a massive snake intending to drown the lowlands of coastal Chile. Trenten Vilu, the god of the earth, defeated Caical after a prolonged battled but was unsuccessful at reuniting the islands with the mainland.   

The Top of the Hill restaurant is a family run business in a house overlooking Ancud. The owner, Stephano, was a whirling dervish as he delivered each plate, moving so fast I couldn't get a picture of him in action. Afterwards, he was happy to pose by his dahlia garden. Seafood is, of course, the most popular meal in town. For those who like shellfish, the servings were a feast to behold! Most of the varieties of potato eaten around the world originated with Chilean cultivars.

Stephano's yard was full of Chimango Caracara birds, another species that has been a companion throughout our trip. For a bird of prey related to falcons it spends a surprising amount of time scavenging on the ground. It has been exciting to see them regularly and at close range but their ear-piercing cries can be a little unsettling when they catch you off guard.   

The Great Chilean Earthquake of 1960 is the most powerful earthquake on record. It sent tsunamis racing towards southern Chile, Hawaii, Japan, the Philippines, eastern New Zealand and Alaska. Over 5000 poeple were killed. Chiloe was devastated, one of the reasons why the capital was moved from Ancud to Castro on the inner side of the main island. A highlight of a visit to Castro is the wooden Church of San Francisco. I found the San Miguel Archangel interesting.      

 

Several of the city's representative pieces of art are gathered in the main square outside of the church.   

The palafitos (stilted houses) of Castro are internationally recognized. They're the traditional painted homes of the mariners. The elevation prevents flooding and is an obstacle to vermin. The government has done a good job of protecting this part of the island's heritage. A bridge connecting Chiloe to the mainland is being built at a projected cost of $740 US million. It will improve services such as education and emergency health care. Opponents argue it will permanently alter the way of life and that more schools and a hospital should be built on the island itself.